The things I will carry

Te llevaré en mi corazon 

Take me back to Rio

Six months later, I am finally getting around to sharing the photos from Rio. You won't be disappointed, this is well worth the wait.

leaving Paraty

Every time I pack my backpack I am utterly amazed at the amount of things I can manage to stuff inside that thing. I have this shit down to an art- ever square centimeter is occupied in the most efficient capacity, but I could not possible lift it onto my back were it just two kilos heavier. So off I go again, on the last leg of my first (because there will undoubtedly be many more) Brazilian adventure. And where else to end a trip in Brasil, but RIO?

feet on the ground. presence

Bebe el té lentamente, con reverencia, como si fuera el eje sobre el que gira la tierra, lentamente, de manera uniforme, sin correr hacia el futuro. Vive el momento actual. Sólo este momento es la vida. 

Drink the tea slowly, with reverence, as if it were the axis on which the earth spins; slowly, in a uniform manner, without running towards the future. Live the moment now. Only this moment is life. 

-Sebastian Martinez

Adventures with Selcuk

There are some people you meet on your travels whom you know, without the slightest doubt, you will see again.

a much needed hug

Domingiando, Feria de Recoleta, Buenos Aires

Regardless of the amazing new people I have met in this past year, there is simply nothing that can replace the hug of an old friend. After eleven months away from home, I was in desperate need of a familiar face. I could not have been happier to open the door at 8am to see Miss Janelle Riolo standing there with a sunny, Charleston size smile on her face and an even bigger backpack threatening to topple her over. The next two weeks of friendship bliss were to be spent between Buenos Aires and Mendoza; tourist style and in full blown vacation mode. I have kept myself on an embarrassingly tight budget for too long so Janelle was the perfect excuse to throw frugality to the wind. Days strolling the streets, museums, markets and parks, afternoon mates, wine and sampling every morsel of Argentine cuisine were the only things on the itinerary and we happily checked them off one by one, over and over again...

Celebration

Looking back on this last year makes me feel like one of the luckiest people on earth. This time last year I was surrounded by my best friends who came from near and far to send me off as I embarked on a journey that would change my life forever. Today I am on a plane, (upgraded to first class) on my way to Mendoza for a week of culinary indulgences with a wonderful friend and a long-awaited reunion with my favorite travel companion. Life is good.

I have been thinking a lot about a passage I read in a book titled "Voces del Desierto" (Desert Voices) about one of the aboriginal tribes in the Australian Outback and their thoughts on birthdays.

"For us, a celebration means something special. But there is nothing special in getting old. There exists no force. It simply happens. We celebrate that we become better. We celebrate this year if we are better and more knowledgeable persons than the year before. Only oneself can know this, so you are the one who should let the others know when the moment has arrived to celebrate. "

So, my friends, it is time to celebrate! Today I will celebrate not the fact that I am a year older but that I am wiser, stronger and happier than last year. I celebrate the many lessons I have learned on the journey, the people I have met, the places that I will forever carry in my heart. Today I celebrate myself for being brave enough to take this trip and to do it on my own. I am proud of the person I have become and I am thankful for the circumstances, encounters, events and mistakes that have brought me to this point. I wouldn't trade my life for anything and I wouldn't take any of it back. I am not perfect, nor do I want to be, but I am a good person, with a good heart and I am humble enough to recognize my flaws and to know that there will always be room for improvement. I will never stop growing, learning, evolving- I walk on an endless path of self-knowledge and discovery- and on this path, through knowing myself I come to know others around me. 

These people are reflections of myself, they possess the characteristics that I want to better in myself. We are magnets, pulled together by the law of attraction. These are my life companions, my soul-mates, mi familia de corazon. They define who I am just as much as any physical characteristic, personality trait or life event. I am so much a product of these people as I am of my environment. These are the people who make life worth living. So today I also celebrate the many individuals who have helped me  to learn and grow along the way. Thank you beautiful people, with your beautiful souls, kind hearts and contagious smiles, for accompanying me on this journey- for walking beside me in the rain, for encouraging me to keep climbing the mountain, for reminding me that the view from the top is always worth it, for strolling slowly down the beach, for riding with me on horse and camel-back. Thank for for the unforgettable powder days, for making me get back on the surf board after getting crushed by a wave, for swimming with me in the oceans, lakes, rivers and waterfalls- for always dancing-for getting your feet dirty- for sharing your sandwich- for inviting me into your home- for watching the sun rise, moon rise, stars fall- for the hugs and kisses and caresses. Thank you for the tears, for the laughs, for the silence. Thank you for being who you are and for helping me become who I am. Today I celebrate both your life and mine. I celebrate the people we used to be and the people we will become. I celebrate our love, our memories, and our future together. This life is about what you make it and the people you make it with. I couldn't feel more blessed to share these moments with you. On this first day of my 27th year I feel happy, fulfilled and immensely grateful. It is a beautiful life my friends, let us celebrate with wine and sweet words! 

All my love forever,

jjv

Jungle Book

Mochila is packed, too heavy, but I've done this before, somehow my body always manages to come through. There are moments when I am sure my calf muscles are going to explode from the skin. Steady breathing, sweat dripping down my red face, I reach another viewpoint looking down over the oceans and coves carved into mountains tumbling delicately along the coast. Green contrasts with blue. Heat is lessened by a cool breeze. There is always a little waterfall waiting somewhere, just in the nick of time. Four days of hiking through the Mata Atlântica...

Mata Atlântica

The Mata Atlântica is a region of tropical and subtropical forest that stretches along the Atlantic coast of Brazil and down into the north-east region of Missiones in Argentina and parts of eastern Paraguay. The original surface area covered 15% of Brazil's total landmass, totaling 1,290,692 km² (498,339 sq mi). Today, only 7% of the forest remains, devastated by human expansion, urban sprawl, logging, and construction to only 4,000 km² (1,500 sq mi), much of which is concentrated in the region of Rio de Janeiro, and is the very jungle that blankets the mountains surrounding Paraty and Trindade. This remaining 7% of jungle is home to some of the most lush biodiversity and endemic species on earth, many facing a serious threat of extinction.  

"Approximately 40 percent of its vascular plants and up 60 percent of its vertebrates are endemic species, meaning they are found nowhere else in the world. The official threatened species list of Brazil contains over 140 terrestrial mammal species found in Atlantic Forest. In Paraguay there are 35 species listed as threatened, and 22 species are listed as threatened in the interior portion of the Atlantic Forest of Argentina. Nearly 250 species of amphibians, birds, and mammals have become extinct due to the result of human activity in the past 400 years. Over 11,000 species of plants and animals are considered threatened today in the Atlantic Forest. Over 52% of the tree species and 92% of the amphibians are endemic to this area. The forest harbors around 20,000 species of plants, with almost 450 tree species being found in just one hectare in some occasions. New species are continually being found in the Atlantic Forest. In fact, between 1990 and 2006 over a thousand new flowering plants were discovered."

Efforts are being made by Brazil's national park service to prevent further destruction of the forest but the most crucial forces are made by the inhabitants themselves. These people know what it means to live in harmony with nature, and if simply allowed to do so, they know that the jungle will restore itself. Mother Nature knows how to take care of herself, but she must be given the time and opportunity to do so...

Caiçara Spirit

I woke with the first soft rays of light to a watercolor sky of oranges, pinks and yellows. My sleepy eyes smiled and I slipped out of my tent, bare feet in the cool sand, still wet from the night's rain. There are few gifts in life that are more rewarding that waking to see the sunrise. This was to be the first of many gifts, many mornings and many sunrises in Trindade. As the colors saturated the horizon I gave a silent namaste to the universe. My day was complete before the rest of the world was awake.

Paraty

Photogenic Paraty calls to memory the vibrant colors of Cartagena and the cobblestone charm of Charleston, topped off with a heavy does of Cachaça and a squirt of lime. Colonized in the sixteenth century by the Portuguese, Paraty became a central shipping hub for gold exported from the region of Minas Gerais and a busy port for slaves coming in to work in the mines and sugar cane fields. When the gold began to run out in the late 18th century, Pararty's economy declined, to be revived a century later by the coffee trade and the production of Brazil's most prized spirit, Cachaça. Today the city lives off tourism, cozy bed & breakfasts, sail boat tours to the many islands and coves, horse-drawn carriage rides through the impeccably decaying historic center and the sale of lots and lots of Capirinhas. 

Frente do Mar

It took me several days to recover from Carnival. The suffocating humidity and inescapable heat helped to expedite the toxin elimination process. I have never sweat so much in my life, I felt like I was melting. With a permanent sweat mustache, the only activity I was capable of was a very slow walk to the beach, zigzagging through every shadow I could find. But there waiting in all it's gloriously wet, turquoise splendor is an endless ocean of cool, refreshing saltiness dotted with little islands of floating mountains on the horizon. An uncontrollable sigh of relief escapes every time I plunge my toasted body into that first crystalline wave of the day. The waves rise like thick glass windows that shatter in a spray of cold droplets. 

Give Thanks

When a loved and well-known local fishermen from Marecias was diagnosed with cancer at 85, he announced to friends and family that not only would he beat cancer, but that he would live to be 100. Several days later he was hit and killed by a car. On the morning of his funeral his fellow fishermen went out to hold an open ocean memorial in his honor. They caught two tons of fish that day. The fish were distributed to every family in Maresias. This was the very first fish I had the pleasure eating in Brasil, cooked in a bonfire on the beach under a glowing moon.

Debauchery

Bariloche has an eerie way of bringing the right people together. I met Jessica Cruz for the first time at the beginning of last ski season. We would always see each other around the mountain but never made much of an effort to be friends. When I returned at the beginning of December she had moved in with my amiga Lu, so we had a new opportunity to get to know one another. Jess is an old soul; at 20 years old she has an outlook and understanding of life that is far beyond her years. She left her family and friends in Brasil last June to move to Bariloche. We both describe feeling an inexplicable calling to this land of lakes, and from the moment we both arrived everything seemed to fall effortlessly into place. We share an incredible love for Bariloche and it has become a home away from home for both of us. The friends we made and memories we created there have marked us forever, and we both know that we will return to the grand shores of the Nahuel Huapi in our own time. 

I had been plotting a beach escape for weeks when Jess said that she might need to go back to Brasil. I love when the timing of things works out so effortlessly. One bottle of wine later and it was decided. To Brasil we go!  And when better to arrive to this sultry country than for the biggest party of the year...  

CARNAVAL 2013 BOIÇUCANGA, SÃO PAULO.  

 tambores na rua

Home on the Nahuel Huapi

The boys are gone and Mauro is in route to Colorado for the winter so I am left alone with Pelusita to take care of the casa for the month of December. I immediately unpack my mochila, hang clothes in the closet, clean, rearrange the furniture, light an incense, pick some flowers, open a bottle of wine and voila! it feels like mine... 

Despertá (Proyecto Todos Juntos)

With the inspiration and vision of Jan Studler along with the collaboration of many many Barilochense artists, musicians, visionaries and heart felt hippies, this project was created from start to finish in one month. The short film premiered on December 21st, 2012. The power of collective consciousness shines through again. Wake up world!

Colorado meets Patagonia

Team Gringo arrived on a warm Chilean afternoon at the end of November. After six days racing up the Carretera Austral to meet these guys, I couldn't have imagined how nostalgic it would be to embrace an old friend is a land so far from home. Jamie Curcio is a long time friend, fellow snow shredder, mountain climber, life lover, adventure seeker and world traveler. I remember a conversation had years ago when he told Steph and I that he would love to come join us on our South American journey. When his own travels took him to different continents, the rendezvous was pushed aside. When I was back in Colorado last February planning my next escape to the southern hemisphere he promised that he would make it to Patagonia to visit. People love to talk. So many people spend so much time talking about all the things they would like to do, all the places they would like to see. Most people find themselves at the end of their lives saying 'I wish I had done half of the things I said I was going to do'. Few people actually act on these far fetched desires they chatter about. But some people do...

home for a few days